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Frequently asked questions about urethane primers Automotive undercoats, primers, sealer and body shop supplies available to order online. We have compiled the most frequently asked questions about automotive undercoats. We will continue to add more of your questions as needed.

Undercoats, Primers, Sealers and Plastic Coatings 1. Question: My car is stripped down to bare metal, what should I use to help adhesion to the metal? Matrix MP-550 Self-Etch Primer is a two-part primer that chemically protects against the corrosion process. Recommended for protecting bare metal, galvanized steel and aluminum, MP-550 gives medium film build to help eliminate imperfections and can be lightly sanded. Surface preparation: Remove tar and grease with Wax and grease remover of your choice before sanding. Sand surface with 180 to 220 grit dry and re-clean surface. If metal surface is badly pitted or rusted, the rust must be removed.

Remove by grinding or sandblasting until all rust is removed. Aluminum and stainless steel MUST be sanded with 150 to 220 grit dry sandpaper even if a metal prep or self etching primer is used. Prime aluminum and stainless steel within 72 hours, and prime bare steel immediately after cleaning. Mixing: Mix 1 Part MP550 Primer with 1Part MA505 Activator.

Application: Apply 1 to 2 coats, wait 30 minutes and then apply MP2K Urethane Primer. Question: What is the difference between Lacquer Primer and Urethane Primer? Urethane primer is about 50 times better.

Many shops have not realized that lacquer primer is the most expensive primer to use in the market. All though the price tag is an attractively inexpensive cost initially, the side affect causes a transparent high cost and many shop owners never even notice.

The number one cause of unsatisfied customers after experiencing an automotive finish repair was due to the use of poor quality undercoats. Lacquer primer is made of talc and resin and is categorizes as a thermoplastic type of paint resin. What is thermoplastic? The simplified answer is thermoplastic products can usually become a liquid state again. For this example, let's say we apply some lacquer primer on a surface and let it dry (notice I did not say cure) outside for one week, a month, or even 2 years. We pull the car inside and take a razor blade and scrape off the primer and put it in your mixing cup.

We pour some good grade lacquer thinner into the cup and wait a couple of days. Stir it and it will be become a liquid state where again, and depending on the resin that was used, you may be able to apply it back on the car. This will not happen to urethane primers. Urethane and Epoxy primers are activated and go through a thermosetting stage. Again, to simplify the answer, Thermosetting in this circumstance is an activated resin that is used in urethane primer becomes a plastic type finish. The new coating structure cannot go back to it's original state. It is designed to become a strong, durable, chemical resistant coating.

The benefits of using urethane or epoxy primers are endless. The body shop and consumer are rewarded by having no lose of gloss, no shrinkage or swelling, delaminating or cracking. The solvents that are used in the basecoat systems are very strong.

You must have an activated and cured undercoat in order for it to resist and repel the solvent from penetrating into it. Since lacquer primer never cures and is made up of talc and thermoplastic resins, it absorbs the solvent instead, therefore causing lose of gloss to the topcoats followed by paint swelling. And if your lucky that's all. In more severe cases the topcoat will delaminate off the lacquer primer.

Urethane Primer contains more solids than lacquer primer and you will use about half the amount to do the same job. We recommend you use the MP-2K Urethane Primer. Sbornik uprazhnenij po russkomu yaziku rozentalj reshebnik. It has very easy to sand properties, high build and cures fast. Mixes 4:1 with activator and does not need reducer. Question: How much urethane primer should I order?